PASTA, RICE & BEANS

4 First-Course Servings

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 quail (4 to 5 ounces each), rinsed well and patted dry
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons finely chopped onion
2 teaspoons finely chopped carrot
2 teaspoons finely chopped celery
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 ripe medium tomato, peeled and cut into small dice
3/4 pound fresh fettuccine, tagliatelle or pappardelle
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

I. Heat the oil in a large, heavy, nonreactive skillet. Season the quail with salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned allover, about 15 min- utes. Transfer to a plate.

2. Add the onion, carrot, celery, sage and rosemary to the skillet and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are lightly colored, about 2 minutes. Return the quail to the pan and turn them in the vegetables for 2 minutes. Add the wine, lower the heat and simmer for 1 minute. Cover the pan tightly and simmer over moderately low heat for 20 minutes.

3. Add the tomato and 1/4 cup of water to the skillet. Shake the pan, cover tightly and cook until the quail meat easily comes away from the bone, about 20 minutes longer. If the sauce begins to look dry, add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water to the pan. Transfer the quail to a plate to cool slightly. Remove the skillet from the heat and cover to keep the sauce warm.

4. Cut off the quail legs at the thighs and set aside. Remove the skin and bones from the quail and discard. Set aside all the meat.

5. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Stir in the pasta and cook until al dente.

6. Add the quail meat to the skillet and rewarm the sauce, stir- ring occasionally, over moderate heat. Season with salt and pepper. Drain the pasta, add it to the quail sauce and toss. Transfer the pasta and sauce to shallow bowls and garnish with the quail legs. Pass the cheese separately